Salvaging Rouge Trader Orks, part 3

So, over the course of what few free evenings I have had, the rest of the large group of orks have progressed and have been finished.

Some observations along the way:

140714 group predip

Ready for the big dip

Painting many figures does take ages, even when doing it as basic as this.

I have decided that I will not ever be using that dip again. In the future I will stick to the brush on ink version of quickshade. Far better control leading to far better results, no shinyness, dries in an hour or so and water soluble. Overall a much better product for my needs.

I had forgotten what a messy sticky substance the tinned quickshade dip is, how it is difficult to be precise with it, how it takes several days to dry properly, how hideously shiny it is when dry, and how difficult it can be to get rid of the shinyness…especially when the ambient humidity rapidly increases to raining cats and dogs right after spraying them! ARGH!

so instead of some nice orkses, we get frosty the snowmen!

140714 grey

Frosted! not grrrrrreeat at all!

At this point I might have said a bad word.

 

So all the orks have become frosted some more, some less.

I got partially rid of the frosting with a second coat of varnish, but some remains. and still some shinyness her and there. Bah!

 

So, powering on, last details and bases are done, which means that they are finished,

 

140714 group finished 2

Battle ready

They might still get a third coat of varnish just in case it might still get rid of some more of the frosting effect.

So that is 38 more boys ready to take to the field in rambunctious waaagh!

Certainly not in any way a great paint job, but perfectly passable for the tabletop, especially considering the starting point.

Rouge Trader Orks pt II

39 in one go does take some time, even though each individual miniature only gets what amounts to minutes. If they take on average 10 minutes each from start to finish, (probably closer to 15 including cleanup and basing)  it still means about 8-10 hours actual work all together…

 

At any rate, here is the test subject all done, with the starting point as a comparison:

140622 rougre trader orks single comparison (1)

This rapibly became a full repaint. mainly because of all the previous colours were all over the place, “dirty” painted and with scrape marks and what have you.

Here I have used Army Painter Strong Tone Wash (not the dip) because the dip talkes several days to dry properly, but I will be dipping the rest.

I think the result is …ok. Not great, but perfectly servicable for my use. Expecially when taking into account that I did not spend that long on this figure, and have 38 more to go.

Speaking of them, some progress has been made:

140622 rougre trader orks single comparison (2)

The grey armour/padding, brown trousers and red details, sleeves, boots, hats, hair, and belts are done. To go are olive green skin, gunmetal guns, and detailing such as weapons in belts, buckles, eyes, teeth, hair, bracelets and what not. Then they will be given a bit of the old dip n shake followed by some anti-shine spray and detail checkup, basing and voila. 39 battle ready ork boys.

The Scrapheap ER Challenge!

The Challenge: Salvage this group of 39 Rouge Trader Space Orks I recently bought of ebay for less than the price of a pint of beer, to a decent table top standard. Speed is of the essence. I will not be spending hours on these, and they will certainly not be golden demon material when finished. But they will be much, much better! I will probably be dipping them at some point, as I do have some dip left and do not seem to be using that stuff any more.

They are really not that badly painted, if it was by an eight year old who only recently got into painting that is.

140619 rougre trader orks group before

Space Orks are a horde army. So you need buttloads of them to make any headway. Here is a buttload. 39 of them.

 

Preamble: skip this if you think it is too wordy.

Most of my own old shite is not salvageable, due to the fact I used a far too thick coat of high gloss varnish on most of them….it is almost as if they are encased in carbonite. I do not have the patience to even try to strip them.

However, I have to date made a number of purchases of second hand miniatures off Ebay. I generally try to avoid buying painted minis, for obvious reasons, but every now and then there comes along what seems like a good bargain for some sort of group or squad for my Space Ork or Skaven army or whatever that I bid a low amout for. Sometimes I end up winning the bid.

Even when paying just a few pounds, most often even this price seems too high for what I get. One would think I would take the hint when there are no good close up pictures of them, and when most descriptions say “well painted” that is usually a lie. Maybe most sellers simply are stating their honest opinions. In which case they must have really low standards. Also it seems most no-one ever cares to clean off mouldlines.

So basically, what I end up getting is what I would normally would consider chucking in the scrapheap.  But I try to salvage them, if I can.

For example, most of my Skaven clanrats purchased in this manner have been repaired, totally repainted and are now sitting pretty, hidden deep in the rank and file with their fellows. With a quick and dodgy repaint, they come to life and are servicable. At least at a distance….This is what we call “speed painting to a table top standard”.

 

Day 1: Getting to grips with the Rouge Trader Space Orks.

I do not have all that much hobby time, so this plog will not be daily. “Day #” refers to the sequential day that I got to work on them.

But wey-hey! 39 Orks! A sizable sqaud of boys in anyone’s book.

Once upon a time I had some of these early plastics from Citadel. However I can no longer find them, and I expect they are lost. They are fun figures, not as comical as the 3rd editon orks, nor as brutal looking as the more recent orks. They will do the job when salvaged.

The minis I got had all the signs of young, but enthusiastic painter. They are all fully based with static grass, done in Goff red and black, classic green skin and and some black and white checkerd patterns here and there. The paint is caked on in places and mostly but not quite within their borders -imprecise. Maybe some sort of shading or thinned black has been used in patches on the red. The models themselves have been glued together without too much thought on posing or how the weapons are carried. At least there is not a lot of visible glue residue. I expect thin solvent glue has been used.

Not at all a bad base to start from…apart from the mould lines! GOD! I HATE THOSE MOULD LINES! So I had to spend som time cleaning them up, scraping off all the mould lines from hell. At least this plastic is really easy to scrape. Also a few loose arms and guns needed gluing on here and there, inclcuding a couple of replacement recent Ork arms from my bits box.

140619 rougre trader orks scrapings

Offcut mould lines and other leftovers after the work was done.

How much had to be cut off?

All the grey is bare plastic.

 

Day 2:  Scruba-dub-dub!

I also could not fail to notice that these figures were dirty. Dust, greasy residue, bits of fluff and hair. What have you. Thats 20 years or more of build up for you. Into the hot soapy water for a good scrub they all go.

After drying they look rather more presentable:

140619 rougre trader orks group post wash

All ranked up and good to go. The grey bits to the right are a set of resin VOID sandbag walls I dug up out of storage the other day.

 

However, because of the large amount of mould line removal, this project is much more likely to be more of a repaint than just an E.R. as most surfaces has lost much of their paint.

Tomorrow I will try to fix one up to see what needs to be done.

 

 

The Great Master from Drake: the Dragon Wargame

One of my favorite minis from the first Drake Kickstarter is The Great Master

 

140609 The Great Master 140609 The Great Master 4140609 The Great Master 1  140609 The Great Master2 140609 The Great Master3

 

In the game The Great Master is a Chant Constuct, which means he is summoned to the battlefield during play.

This miniature is one of the original pre-kickstarter Drake minis, sculpted by Alex Huntley of Warploque Miniatures. Which I assume also means that it is sculpted by hand and not in a computer. I made the mistake of priming it by hand, and since this mini has a lot of sharpish corners and bits, the paint tends to rub off leaving bare metal. You can see this on the horn in one of the pictures. I have already had to repair the paint job several times, even before it was finished. The paint job will not survive the handling of gameplay I think.

Good thing I have another one. Note to self: Always prime metal miniatures with a spray primer.

National day off = painted Growler

Moving on through the shelf of half-abandoned minis, we get to the Papa Growler. This is not the biggest, I believe I should have an even larger one in a more impressive pose lying around somewhere. But I have not seen it for quite some years. Going to need to do a little search mission one of these days. I have foud a couple of much smaller ones though.Going to do those in short order soon. then we get a little family of growlers of sorts.

But at any rate this one is done.

140609 big growler140609 big growler 1 140609 big growler 2 140609 big growler 3

These massive muscular beasts are a joy to do in colour gradients, if you would call this kind of effect a “gradient”.

Not entirely satisfied with the horns/spines/claws though. The top layer was too strongly opaque and spoiled the effect I was going for.

Off the shelf of Shame, part V. The good, the bad and the ugly, ugly failure

Being in part, the further chronicles of the Most Holy Quest to see the Wall Behind the Shelf of Shame:

 

140608 warzone undead legionnaries

1. Three Undead Legionnaires, from first edition Warzone. Metal models.

 

140608 werewolf grey

2. The second Mantic Werewolf. And it does look better in all over grey.

 

140608 The Mighty Z´zor Team

3. Dreadball Team: The Mighty Z´zor! The Ludwig MVP in Thor colours in the works. These have actually been nearly done for ages, just the bases needed doing. Getting a smooth yellow is really difficult with my old paints, even with a smooth bone basecoat beneath. The yellow paints simply have extremely poor coverage, even in several coats. That includes both several old Citadel-types (as in pre-2000), recent Army Painter and Vallejo. Maybe I need to get one of the new citadel base yellows, if they make one.

 

140608 lesser fire elemental

Gah! it’s ugly! Take it to the city walls and kill it with a rock!

4. Reaper Bones 77083: Medium Fire Elemental. I am not at all pleased with the result.

This one was a bit of a struggle, and in the end, a failure. But I have learned some things with it.

a) Translucent Bones also need an undercoat of sorts.

First Fail: I started out (after washing it) with yellow ink. -It did not really show, and just made a sticky mess of everything, But it did tint the model a bit.

After that had dried for sereval days, I did some drybrushing. Problem was the ink did not stick properly to the bones material, and rubbed off in places. And then the drybrushed paint would not stick. After several goes, I at least got some colour on the mini.

Lesson learned: The next translucent bones, I will undercoat with matte varnish. Maybe that lets the paint sit on the mini.

b) Thinned down paints definately do not stick to it, when the basecoat fails.

Yes, you see the results. Not good at all. Paint has not built up properly, leaving flaws and ruining the effect completely.

I tryied to combat this by mixing some opaque bone paint into the mix, but this really ruined it. Big mistake!

Lesson Learned: opaque paint does not go with (this kind of)  trancelucency. It just jars.

c) Thinning with water only goes so far.

I mainly thin with water, mostly because I do not have any medium or acrylic paint thinner. Problem is that this effects the paints coherency in additon to the fluidity. The paint somewhat falls apart.

Lesson Learned: Use medium insted of water to thin paint for translucency, when painting Bones or large surfaces.

 

I now need to shower my shame away. Gah!

Off the shelf of shame, chapter IV: A New Hope

Another month, another blog post. Being bogged down by work for several weeks has left little time for playing around with miniatures, and nothing new to show off here on the blog.

Mostly I can grab half an hour here and half an hour there and often just som prep. Sometimes I find that it is somewhat off-putting even to begin painting a new miniature (needing to actually think about what colors and techniques to use…), and then it is more recreational to simply do prepwork and build stuff instead. Luckily I still have masses and masses of unbuilt kickstarter rewards lying about, and also some ebay purchases to make ready for painting. I have more then I will ever finish. Certainly at this pace.

I am also rather flighty and tend to start off a few things, and then leave them unfinished for some time. So my shelf of shame is brimming.

This time around I have the following done:

140601 growler f 140601 growler s

1. A Growler, from the defunct game Vor: the Maelstrom. This one has the feel of Kev Adams the Goblinmaster about it. Basically a Warhammer Squig that also has a body to match, or a Warzone Razide with a Squig for a head. I do not really remember much of the game apart from something about the Maelstrom was ripping worlds apart/ out of their own realities, and smushing them toghether, creating a game setting where literally anything could happen. Growlers were omnivorous aliens that absorbed properties of what they ate, and therefore were quite deadly in close combat.

 

140601 wormpile140601 wormpile 2

2. Wormpile from Hell Dorado. I only got the Hell Dorado rulebook yesterday and have not had a time to read much of it yet. Suffice to say, it’s a Hell of a setting to put a wargame in, and has some really nice miniatures! The wormpile is some sort of demonic entity, comprised of masses and masses of maggoty worms, and some bits and pieces of earlier victims. I have no idea how good or bad it might be in battle.

 

140601 werewolf 2 140601 werewolf 3  140601 werewolf 1140601 werewolf 4

3. Mantic Werewolf from their Kings of War Kickstarter, this is the first test subject. I have nine of so lying about. Not really satisfied with this one. Maybe grey or black is the way to go, instead of fleshy tones. See comment about the base below.

 

140601 ukjent 4 140601 ukjent 3 140601 ukjent 2 140601 ukjent 1

4. Unknown. I do not remember where this comes from. It is not a Citadel miniature. I have a suspicion it might be some sort of Dungeons & Dragons mini from Wizards of the Coast from the series they released during the early 2000s, or something Cthulhoid from the same period. It is made in a yellowish, hard metal. Not lead.

 

140601 werewolf base

Here I have tried out the Citadel Earth technical some more, making it look like dried out, cracked mud. Still not pleased with the effect, as the cracks are rather smaller than I would like.

Also, here I learned that whatever colour is beneath it will show in the cracks.